Gary sold his business to Quirey Quality Design Co as of 12/10/18.
Gary Goers has always been a fantastic source for rubber, clips, rug and trunk kits, rehttps://www.quireyqualitydesign.com/production parts, decals and more. Best quality reproductions ever. He was slow in shipping product but worth the wait. I bought all my rubber and clips from him and more. Gary has been great at supplying parts for our cars and will be greatly missed.
I was glad to see Gary’s business was bought out and was looking forward to doing business with the new owners, but was disappointed in the begining.
****************** 2/10/2025 Update. Some car owners have bee ordering from Gary’s catalog with some success. I have not tried ordering from them again since 2020, but soon will.
Handy Tip for Putting brake fluid into the master brake cylinder
As you all may well know the master brake cylinder is buried under the power brake booster bellows, making almost impossible to get to the bolt on the cover that is located on the top of the master cylinder, to add brake fluid to it.
Here is a handy tip:
I made a special tool that is similar to an oiler bottle. It’s just a slam bottle with a stem attached to it. I use this bottle just for brake fluid, as to not cross contaminate any fluids. You can purchase a filler bottle (see the picture) again, I just made one similar to it.
1 – You will need someone to help you do this. Have the other person sit in the driver seat and start the car. They will press the brake pedal all the way to the floor of the first depression (do not pump the brakes). Have them push the pedal all the way to the floor and hold it. This will collapse the bellows completely out of the way.
2 – Now you will loosen the bolt of the top of the master brake cylinder from under the hood. With the cover loose, not completely unbolted, slide the stem of the special tool that you filled with brake fluid, and fill until you see fluid start to pour over the edge of the master cylinder.
3 – Tighten the bold back up on the cover of the master cylinder. Than step back “Do not have your hands near the bellows before you go to the next step.
4 – You can now have the person helping you, release the brake pedal, and turn off the car.
Cooling System
Cooling System
Classic Auto Air / Original Air AC component rebuild service
Search the above name is Facebook to find his Business Blog on Facebook. Was unable to copy a link.
Call for an estimate (330) 843-0335.
Joe White is the Owner.
Factory Electrical Information
Donated by Marc Boulanger
Generator Restoration
Don Allen of Gener-Nator in Florence Oregon does a great job of converting your existing generator housing with a new heavy duty generator or alternator along with a solid state voltage regulator inside your old voltage regulator housing.
I did have my Generator powder coated Gloss Black and the fan blades powder coated Silver.
Tar topper is a great way to have that retro look and have the best battery in your car money can buy. Another nice touch is to buy a battery decal from Gary Goers and have it laminated then glue is on with spray glue.be sure to laminate it as debris from the fan belt will get on it and it cleans up nicely if laminated.
Correct measurements for the holes when adding a factory hood ornament
George Laurie
Reproduction Lenses – Still in Business as of 4/27/22 (See Below)
These are some of the best lenses reproductions in the world. They come from George Laurie in Australia. He can be contacted for a price list at georgelaurie@bigpond.com
There was some rumor on the internet of George going out of business so I contacted him directly. The correspondence is below. As of 4/7/2020 he is still talking orders and will be slow on processing. He still makes marvelous lenses and is the only source on the planet. Be patient, it is worth the wait. He also sent me the most current price list. I have used him and the ones I got are shown below.
Update – just corresponded with George, he is still in business and making great reproductions 4/27/22.
Anders Molle Anderson
Can be reached at
Molle30057@gmail.com
At the time of adding this vendor the set of two tail lenses was $350.00 plus shipping.
Tail Lenses Reproductions in Sweden
A source for “Barrel Nuts” the small nut that holds small trim parts on
5/22/20 Don Schwanke found a source for this elusive hard to find part. These nuts are used on the trim letters to hold them on.
Had the old anodizing stripped off, trim straightened, re anodized two tone, painted and reassembled.
Correct Valve Cover Decals
These are the correct valve cover decals for your 1959 Imperial. Believe me, I’ve done my homework on this and have proof, from the surviving cars that are still factory original, that I am correct on this. The only reason you see the 1958 style on many of the 1959 cars is because the correct ones had never been available until (2005) when the Imperial Online car Club made it possible to make them yourself. If you have the oval 1957, 1958 type for the Hemi they have been replaced from the original rectangular style, for the 413 The Wedge, at some time, and are wrong. Many vendors are selling the oval type claiming they are 1959 but they just don’t know better or don’t care.Note: see update below. These can now be purchased.
Until now you would have to make them but it is easy and not expensive. I suggest just buying them.
Below is the link for “The Template” and you will have to find a source for the gold foil paper needed if you make them yourself, but I highly recommend you buy the ones Henrik is reproducing. They are exactly like factory original and based on pristine NOS decals that were found.
I would recommend getting your valve covers powder coated gloss black See (Suggestions for engine compartment) section below.
NOTE: Be sure to put the oil cap back on before aligning the driver side valve decal so that the placement is correct. The valve cover decal should not be blocked by the oil cap at all.
Note: As of 10/1/21 they are now being reproduced professionally in Sweden by Henrik Raggarn Bjorklund.
Henrik has them available, see Henrik’s section below to order them. They are fantastic.
Valve Cover, Truck Handle Decals, Power seat badge and much more.
These are exactly like the original factory decals.
Contact Henrik at henrik.bjorklund@carlsfors.se
To purchase any of his reproductions.
Henrik’s Reproduction – Power Seat Medallions
These were to be on our 1959 Imperials, went as far as a part number and placement location in parts manuals. Chrysler decided not to put them on the Imperials at production time, but Henrik has brought them back using his time machine and now offers them as a special conversation piece.
Henrik is now reproducing the correct valve cover and trunk handle decals. They are correct to factory original and the best reproductions of these decals I’ve ever seen.
He also has reproduction trunk insert emblems recreated to NOS specs. I’ve put all his reproductions on my car.
These are gorgeous reproductions from Henrik Raggarn Bjorklund in Husquarna Sweden.
Type 1959 Imperial hood insulation in the search bar of the web site. That will take you to the EBay listing. Place order. The shipping is a little much but its because they use USP which is better than the other package carriers in dealing with claims. It is still worth it as they are the closest thing I’ve seen outside of factory original
Suggestions for engine compartment
I recommend getting any engine part you can powder coated when you can. Everything else paint with a high heat gloss paint. I do all the black in Gloss Black powder coat. I would get the valve covers and spark plug holders done before you redo the valve cover decals (see above for valve cover decal creation). I’ve had other items like the generator fan blade done in silver powder coating and the air cleaner in Gold powder coating. I have also had my tire rims and the spare tire hold down and jack parts powder coated.
The radiator is one of the only exceptions as I’ve seen many factory photos that show a dark grey gloss color and I would have that painted dark grey high heat paint and then gloss clear high heat paint. Most radiators are painted black on existing cars, I’m not sure if many were changed later on or the factory options for radiator color was black or dark grey. I’ve seen both.
I also get all my decals laminated with the thinnest laminate available. I get this done at a local copy center. I then use a spray glue to attach them.
I have had my exhaust manifold ceramic-ed (silver color). It looks great and will never rust or need repainting.
All of these suggestions will help you keep the engine and trunk compartments looking great for a much longer time and cleanup is much easier. It also looks fantastic.
Note: 10/5/21 I made a recommendation list below for people that are having their engine rebuilt. This way you can print it out and go over it with your mechanic doing the rebuild. More detailed instruction on some of the things suggested are right here on this website Parts/Misc. page.
Recommended Additives
The Mechanic that did most of the restoration and rebuild of my car, Bill Rice, recommends that you put a Zinc additive in every oil change. This is one brand Lucas racing ZDDP TB Zinc-Plus (see photo below). One whole bottle per oil change right along with the 5 quarts of 10W30 or 10W40 non synthetic motor oil. Our cars have a solid flat tappet camshaft and it is a must to have Zinc as a lubricant to prevent wear. Zinc was taken out of today’s oils in the 1970’s. Only a few modern oils have Zinc in them and are usually for racing cars only.
I also recommend Marvel Mystery Oil (see photo below) in both your gas and oil. Just a shot in your oil when you change it out and a splash in your gas tank every fill up. This helps clean and lubricate fuel and oil systems.
If you have not changed out your engine to hardened valves then you should be adding a lead additive in every tank of gas.
Source for exact replacement Mufflers, Resonators and pipes. Picture below shows the proper Chrysler hook at the end of the exhaust pipes.
Factory Parts literature
Factory Parts Literature
Motor’s Auto Repair Manual 1959 Chrysler / Imperial
Donated by Marc Boulanger
Owners Manual
If you don’t have an owner’s manual for your glove box, you do now.
Back in 2008 I donated the images of my pristine owner’s manual along with the envelope and dealership brochures and materials to the Imperial Online Car Club. Here is the link to print out and reproduce one for yourself, or you can just print these pictures out. Use a cardboard stock not regular copy paper.
This is the dealership literature that was in my car’s glovebox from when the first owner bought the car new.
Production Ticket aka Build Card/Production Record aka Build Sheet from Chrysler
**** Latest Update: As of 1/15/22 documents are available through Chrysler Historical.
As of 2/26/21 Chrysler Historical does not even have access to their own historical records at least until June of 2021 or longer. You can read for yourself the correspondence I had with them located on the first two photos below. It’s a shame that Chrysler takes so little interest in sharing what history they may have been able to save. I’ve been trying for years to get any historical records from them and hit a wall every time. I have asked them to put a price on all materials they have on 1959 Imperials, will see if anyone there even takes the time to take my offer seriously. I’ll try again in June and give everyone an update.
Back in 4/14/2020 was offing this, but no longer. Fiat Chrysler is only releasing Production tickets or a Build Card for our cars. The good news is that it is free, and they no longer charge a fee, since it’s just the Build Card. They no longer send a Production Record or decoded Build Sheet from the Production Ticket. If you have not found one somewhere in your car then I would still recommend getting the Production ticket, From Chrysler, as it still is the only source to get the exact build date and ship date of your car. The date on the Data Plate is the Scheduled to build date, not the actual built date, even though most cases they could be the same date. The Production Ticket aka Build Card proves build date and Ship Date. It should have the Dealership the car was shipped to also. The Production Tickets can vary from very clear to very blurry, it’s hit or miss on how well they took a picture of it when they microfilmed it. Below is the most recent correspondence I had with them. It explains what you need to provide in order to receive a Build Card.
Steering wheel horn ring pad reproduction (Pad only)
Bertram, one of our members has developed a wonderful reproduction replacement to the center padded area of the steering column, using sculptured foam and vinyl that looks factor original. It’s the pad part only, horn ring not included. Don, another member, was able to stain his the correct color for his car. They come in Black only from Bertam as far as I know. You can contact Don Schwanke, thru the Forum, on what he used to stain his to match the color he wanted.
Contact Bertram Niklasson in Sweden
chrysler57@gmail.com
Proper storage of the jack in the trunk
Again great research by Don Schwanke on how to properly stow your jack in the truck. You will need the wood block and spring. The wood block came from the factory painted black. You may have to make the wood block. Below shows the measurements to make your own. The head of the jack has to be flipped upside down when stowing the jack.
Also shown is a picture of the correct jack handle.